The concept of “collagen banking” represents an emerging strategy in cosmetic science, focusing on the long-term preservation of dermal structure rather than solely stimulating collagen synthesis. Skin aging is increasingly understood as a multifactorial process driven by the interplay between inflammatory signaling, extracellular matrix (ECM) degradation, and impaired regenerative capacity. Central to this process is the 'inflammation-matrix axis,' involving interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1α), matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), and Type I procollagen.

This study evaluates a novel active system combining plant-derived exosome-like vesicles from Centella asiatica callus culture with hydrolyzed Ganoderma lucidum protein-derived peptides. The system is designed to modulate intercellular communication and influence gene-level pathways associated with collagen preservation and matrix integrity.

In vitro investigations were conducted using human keratinocyte cultures subjected to lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced inflammatory stress. Biomarker analysis via immunofluorescence demonstrated a significant reduction in IL-1α expression (up to 39%), indicating effective upstream suppression of inflammatory signaling. Concurrently, the active system reduced collagen degradation, with an observed 11% decrease in MMP-1-associated matrix breakdown. Additionally, a marked increase in Type I procollagen synthesis was observed, confirming stimulation of matrix regeneration pathways.

Clinical evaluation at a 2% use level further supported these findings. After 28 days of topical application, subjects exhibited a statistically significant increase in dermal density (mean +16.4%, with 88% of participants showing improvement), alongside measurable improvements in skin firmness and elasticity. Wrinkle analysis revealed a 14.2% reduction in wrinkle depth and expression lines.

These results demonstrate a comprehensive, multi-pathway approach to skin aging, supporting collagen preservation, protection, and regeneration, and reinforcing the potential of “collagen banking” as a framework for next-generation cosmetic innovation.

Objective:
Sebum, a complex mixture of lipids, plays a key role in protecting and lubricating the skin and hair. While sebum acts as a natural barrier against microbes and pollutants, its build-up or contamination can contribute to conditions like acne and dandruff. The aim of this work was to establish an understanding and develop new methods and knowledge about physicochemical properties of artificial sebum (AS) that underpin the cleansing technologies.

Methods:
A novel micromanipulation method was developed and optimised for mechanical characterisation of AS thin films through scratch testing. The effect of temperature and humidity were evaluated using a combination of Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Dynamic Vapour Sorption (DVS). Polarised Optical Microscopy (POM) allowed for evaluating polymorphism of AS.

Results:
AS upon ageing reduced the cohesive energy from 0.3 mJ on the day of preparation to 0.04 mJ after 72 hours, which is due to the kinetic transformation of more unstable β’ to β polymorph. DSC and POM analysis showed a change in crystallinity of AS upon ageing due to the change into the thermodynamically stable polymorphs. The addition of model air pollutants to AS resulted in lower mechanical strength and change in the polymorphism of AS, which made AS more solid-like at skin temperature therefore making it less likely to melt and remove. DVS analysis of polluted sebum after 24 h showed reduction in water sorption upon addition of pollutants suggesting that air pollutants affect water sorption and therefore moisturisation properties of sebum.

Conclusion:
This work offers an in-depth understanding of the physicochemical characteristics of AS and its interactions with model air pollutants. It was established that the physicochemical properties of AS are dependent on the crystal structure of lipids, which also get affected by the addition of model air pollutants.

Objective:

Hyperpigmentation requires a holistic approach targeting melanocytes and their microenvironment. This study identifies a solution that treats dark spots by directly targeting not only melanin but also lipofuscin accumulation, while mitigating pro-pigmenting molecules released by surrounding skin cells and sensory neurons.

Methods:

A specific Zingiber officinale root extract (ZOE) was evaluated in vitro on skin cells and monocytes (for RGMB release). Subsequently, an 84-day double-blind clinical study was conducted. Thirty Asian volunteers with dark spots applied 0.5% ZOE twice daily on a randomized half-face versus placebo. Cross-polarized imaging (ColorFace® and UVCam®) was used to measure dark spot density, skin color contrast, yellowness, luminosity, and lightening at D0, D56, and D84.

Results:

In vitro, ZOE effectively targeted both source pigments, decreasing melanin in melanocytes (-46%) and lipofuscin in fibroblasts (-26%). Furthermore, ZOE reduced the RGMB release (-12%) by monocytes, which led to a secondary reduction of melanin production (-22%). In vivo, clinical imaging confirmed remarkable corrections. At day 56, 0.5% ZOE significantly reduced dark spot density (-181% vs. placebo) and skin color contrast (-142%). By day 84, it reduced skin yellowness (-29%) while drastically increasing luminosity (+100%) and skin lightening (+85%).

Conclusion:

The applied methodology identified a specific ginger extract that directly reduces both melanin and lipofuscin, two pigment sources of dark spots. The study validates that a comprehensive intercellular approach successfully translates into strong clinical efficacy, significantly correcting dark spots and boosting overall skin radiance. To complete this holistic strategy in formulation, integrating an upcycled Persea gratissima oil (PGO) delivers complementary biological and sensory benefits, infused with a strong touch of naturality.