Breakthrough Claims Testing Methods Seminars

13:30 - 14:00

KEYNOTE: The State of the Art and a Crystal Ball into What the Future Might Hold for Clinical Studies on Cosmetic Products

In this talk I will discuss the current state of the art in measuring the benefits of cosmetic products in clinical studies. I will discuss the latest advanced instrumentation being used to collect data to understand how skin behaves and responds to products and how advanced image analysis and AI supported processes are enhancing our ability to evaluate skin. I will also discuss the exciting opportunities brought by molecular biology, proteomics and lipidomics and how they can be routinely incorporated into clinical studies to reveal not only how skin is functioning, but also how products or the environment are altering the function at the molecular level. These new insights provide new targets for actives research, or new strategies for improving skin for consumer benefits. We are entering an exciting new age where we can prove in vivo the things that only previously could be demonstrated in cell culture models. I will try to illustrate why this presents such an exciting opportunity for our industry to develop the next generation of innovative products that will bring new consumer benefits.

Speaker

  • Andrew Kirby Quality Manager & Scientific Adviser - Cutest UK
14:00 - 14:20

Investigating the Role of DNA Damage-Induced Cellular Senescence in Hair Follicle Aging: Towards Prolonged Hair Longevity

This study investigates the complex process of hair aging, particularly focusing on cellular senescence, a key hallmark of aging, triggered by environmental factors such as UV radiation and pollution. We aimed to induce cellular senescence by causing DNA damage in hair follicle (HF) cultures ex vivo using BrdU treatment. BrdU significantly increased DNA damage and cellular senescence markers, which, in turn, led to a noticeable decline in hair shaft quality demonstrated by reduced hair shaft keratin production. Functionally, this BrdU-induced cellular senescence resulted in a shortened hair growth phase and decreased proliferation of hair matrix keratinocytes. These preliminary findings provide valuable insights into senescence-induced HF aging and may pave the way for targeted cosmetic interventions to promote hair health and longevity.

Speaker

15:00 - 15:20

A Multiscale Model of Hair Repair: Biomolecular Markers and Sensory Validation

Short Synopsis for Website/Promotion This presentation showcases a novel integrative model for evaluating hair fibre repair and restoration, bridging cosmetic efficacy with molecular integrity. Through biochemical markers such as protein carbonylation and lipid restoration, the study quantifies structural recovery in hair exposed to chemical and environmental stressors. These objective molecular results align with global sensory evaluations, capturing perceptible improvements in hair condition—both in professional salon treatments and at-home use. By connecting deep biological repair with tangible, real-world benefits, this approach establishes a new scientific standard for validating haircare efficacy across consumer and professional applications.

Speaker

  • Elena Zanca Head of R&D and Innovation, Hair Care - Davines Group, Italy
15:20 - 15:40

Titanium Dioxide Actives Against Solar Light: Anti-photoaging at a Gene Expression Level

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is an inorganic sunscreen filter found in many mineral-based sunscreens, providing broad spectrum UV protection with a greater affinity for UVB. It is therefore an active ingredient which can be optimised and employed to protect against photoaging. In this presentation, titanium dioxide of different particle sizes, in oil dispersions, will be discussed in terms of blocking various wavelengths of the solar spectrum and alleviating UV-induced expression of various photoaging-associated genes. The talk will draw from previous RNAseq findings in a paper published in last month's issue of The FASEB Journal.

Speaker