Jaana Ailus1,
1 – Liverpool John Moores University, UK
Background info
This work examines the ethnobotanical history and scientific potential of Epilobium angustifolium, commonly known as fireweed, as a valuable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. E. angustifolium claims a long history of traditional use across Northern Europe, Asia, and North America for its therapeutic properties, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects.
Aims
The presentation analyses the existing scientific evidence supporting the use of E. angustifolium in skin care, focusing on its potential benefits in moisturisers, serums, shampoos, sun protection products, and exfoliants. Furthermore, the safety considerations and regulatory status of E. angustifolium in cosmetics, highlighting its favourable safety profile and long history of use are evaluated.
Furthermore, different E. angustifolium extracts, from different raw material suppliers, were analysed in terms of their composition, solubility, recommended usage levels, and potential applications in different cosmetic formulations. The different E. angustifolium extracts under scrutiny all have different marketing claims and are targeted at different methods of action. This presentation looks at how the marketing claims are supported by the existing literature.
Methods
Cosmetic ingredient databases were investigated to access the information for the E. angustifolium extracts. Raw material supplier data and formulation guidelines were also reviewed. Scientific journals and other publications were reviewed to gain understanding of the chemical composition and historical usage of E. angustifolium. Three simple formulations were created and manufactured, each incorporating one of the E. angustifolium extracts.
Results and discussion
This work took into consideration three different E. angustifolium extracts. One was water-based, one was oil-based, and one was in powder form. Notably, these three E. angustifolium extracts showcase a diverse range of effects, including anti-irritant, skin soothing, anti-acne, anti-redness, and scalp health benefits. Although all three extracts are of the same plant, their solubility, and therefore their theoretical chemical components vary.
Three very different cosmetic products were formulated, each containing the recommended amount of the E. angustifolium extract. The products formulated were a serum, an emulsion and a balm, showcasing how E. angustifolium extract can lend itself to very different formulation types and multiple different ways of use.
Conclusion
The work concludes by outlining future research directions, including optimizing extraction techniques for maximizing desired constituents, investigating the potential of specific flavonoids and triterpenes for skin benefits, and exploring synergistic effects with other ingredients.
