Chalisa Supjaroenporn1 2, Maria Teresa Borrello1, and Nuntawat Khat-Udomkiri 2
1 – School of Cosmetic Science, University of Sunderland, Sunderland SR1 3SD, England
2 – School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand
Abstract: Environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional solvents are increasingly sought by both industry and academia. In the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, the processes for extracting bioactive compounds from plant material still heavily rely on organic solvents. The growing emphasis on sustainability, the development of more eco-friendly products, and heightened consumer awareness of environmental impacts are driving the ever-growing research into novel extraction methods. Polyols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol are gaining interest as green alternatives to organic solvents. A growing body of evidence shows that these polyols can facilitate the dissolution of bioactive components of plant material comparably to organic solvents. This study aims to compare the efficiency of Ultrasonic-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and conventional Maceration (MAR) using ethanol (UAEE, MARE) and aqueous-glycerine-butylene glycol mixture (UAEG, MARG) to extract the bioactive components of Vitex trifolia L. (VT). VT is a widely distributed tropical shrub in northern Thailand, commonly used in traditional Thai medicine to treat various ailments and skin conditions. Over 300 compounds have been isolated from VT, including terpenoids, flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, phenolic acids, and steroids. Various phenolic substances, such as kaempferol-3-O-glucoside, luteolin, and ferulic acid, have been identified as having significant wound healing properties and important antioxidant and anti-aging activities, making them suitable for inclusion in dermatological products.
To test the extract biological activities we used two human keratinocyte cell lines. Both extracts showed no toxicity at high concentrations in both cell lines. In addition, UAEG and MAEG extracts exhibited high scavenging activity when cells were challenged with hydrogen peroxide, demonstrating significant antioxidant capacity. Furthermore, the extracts had strong wound healing properties, promoting a complete wound closure in a wound healing assay after only 20 hours of treatment.
The study aims to introduce a new environmentally friendly extraction technique that could be applied to other natural products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Additionally, it seeks to further explore the dermatological benefits of VT extracts. Finally, the study aims to enhance the economy of the Mae Fah Luang region in Thailand by exploring the potential of introducing these active ingredients in cosmetic formulations.
