Thursday 5 September Seminars

07:30 - 09:00

Future Education Forum – Hosted by CCUK

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=""]All conference delegates are free to join the Future Education Workshop, please inform us that you would like to join when you register for the conference.  Breakfast and drinks will be supplied by CCUK. Please come along and share your views.  Here are some details for the event:

Goal of the future education workshop:
To gather the views, opinions and issues of stakeholders in the education and skills pathways into careers in the cosmetics industry, especially in cosmetic science.

Target participant: academia, industry, students.

Format:
Stakeholders from across the sector have been invited to give a short presentation on their views on the question.

What should the future of cosmetic science education look like?”

There will be 5 x 5 min talks.

What the workforce needs will be in the coming years
Ana Filippa Calado - Arthur Edward Associates

What is being designed into educations provision in Universities
Gabriela Daniels - LCF

What are student's expectations of the education they are receiving
Rayanne Golding – Future Soc

Cosmetic science education for in work study
Bernice Ridley - SCS

New developments in science and relevance to the cosmetics industry
Majella Lane – UCL/Editor IJCS

Talks will be followed by a Panel discussion and audience Q&A. Some initial questions can include:-

  • Can we/should we try to achieve a level playing field so that ‘in work skill standards’ are generally good across the board (possibly a role of the SCS Diploma?) How do University courses fit in with this?
  • How can we make all the educational offers in cosmetic science courses more attractive to learners to aid recruitment.

Next steps beyond the workshop...

Use the findings to help design a dedicated summit with a further purpose and aims and which could take place over a day or two with involvement of all stakeholders.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Speakers

09:00 - 09:30

KEYNOTE – Green Chemistry & Cosmetics

Green Chemistry and Cosmetics
The drive for improved sustainability credentials in cosmetics fuelled both by consumer interest and the potential impact of future legislation around, for example micropollutants, is well-known.

Several current topics of research in the field of green chemistry – that is chemistry focussed of the design of products and processes that minimise or eliminate the use and generation of hazardous substances – will be explored.

Solvents
What makes a solvent green? One can consider many aspects. Perhaps a full lifecycle analysis, or a balance of health hazards, whether or not it is bio-based, or biodegradable, whether it gives rise to VOC emissions, or has an aquatic impact,  whether it is flammable or explosive, or otherwise reactive and indeed the impacts those solvent properties may have on the processes in which it is used, or products in which it is a component.

Some existing solvents currently in use in cosmetics will be critiqued - including instances where they have been applied in other fields after cosmetics led the way, and some newer biobased solvents, potentially of relevance to application in cosmetics, will be profiled.

Polymers in Liquid Formulations
Polymers in liquid formulations have an estimated global value of $1.3 trillion pa, with 36 million tonnes being made annually: enough to fill Wembley Stadium 32 times over. As part of an EPSRC/BBSRC Prosperity Partnership collaboration between Croda, the University of Nottingham and the University of York, we have recently been preparing a library of novel bioderived monomers, making those monomers into polymers and are working towards exploring their biodegradability as it is critical that we understand the wider sustainability credentials of these materials and how they might compare with current products.

Peptides
Solid phase peptide synthesis is traditionally highly wasteful - requiring large volumes of undesirable solvent.  We are working to explore both more sustainable solvent choices – and more efficient coupling conditions compatible with those choices.

Speaker

  • Prof. Helen Sneddon Professor in Sustainable Chemistry & Director of the Green Chemistry - University of York
09:30 - 10:00

The Challenges of Delivering Cosmetic Actives – Role of the formulator

The skin has evolved to keep water in and other xenobiotics or foreign substances out. The outer layer, the stratum corneum, is a unique membrane that is about a sixth of the thickness of a piece of paper.  It is composed of dead cells that are filled with keratin and are very dense in nature. Today we understand that it is this thin membrane that is the major barrier to effective targeting of actives from topical formulations.

Targeting of actives to specific regions of the epidermis and dermis is the ‘holy grail’ of skin delivery. However, skin penetration of most actives often does not exceed more than 2-4% of the applied amount. Partly this reflects a lack of focus on the vehicle and a lack of awareness that the fate of the active is linked inextricably to specific carrier components of the formulation. No single formulation can address the competing requirements of the diverse array of compounds we find in personal care and cosmetic products. Instead, consideration must be given to the solubility of the active in vehicle components as well as the residence time of those vehicle components in the skin. The overarching theme of my research is the identification of vehicle components that are optimal for a specific active. Over the years my work has demonstrated the utility of this approach using both in vitro and in vivo studies.

Advances in the range and sensitivity of analytical techniques available to scientists are already providing better insights into vehicle effects on skin delivery of actives. Building on these findings, we should be optimistic about our ability to create better and more efficacious formulations for consumers.

Speaker

  • Majella Lane PhD Director, Skin Research Group - School of Pharmacy, University College London
10:00 - 10:30

Rheological Principles to Predict Sensorial Properties of Topical and Hair Formulations

The sensorial properties of skin and hair care products play a key role on consumer’s acceptability of the products. In a previous work [1] we have set design principles for hand sanitiser formulations relating rheological properties and hand feel experience: low runoff, spreadability, smoothness and non-stickiness. In this work we investigate the rheological properties of different topical and hair care formulations and access if the same design principles can be applied to those formulations.

Shear and extensional rheological measurements were performed on different topical and hair commercial products. Rheological experiments are informative of the deformation and flow behaviour of the material and how it responds to different applied stresses. Shear rheology tells us about the viscoelastic properties of the material when subjected to shear deformations, whereas extensional rheology can show us the material’s response when stretched/extended. Both type of flows can be generated while applying topical and hair care formulations. Steady shear rheology was measured using a Kinexus Ultra+ (NETZSCH), using a 40 mm smooth and/or sandblasted cone-plate 1° geometry, and a 40 mm Crosshatch plate-plate geometry. When possible, the extensional properties of the formulations were obtained using a Capillary Breakup Extensional Rheometer (ThermoFisher) using 6 mm plates.

Results show that not all the topical and hair formulations tested follow all the four design principles proposed in our previous work, which for some products could be expected based on their formulation’s composition. Most of the formulations that passed the smoothness criteria, that is satisfied if the formulation has a measurable First Normal Stress Difference at high shear rates [1], have polymers in their composition. The rheology and sensorial performance of topical formulations can be improved by changing or adjusting the formulation ingredients properties, such as the polymer’s molecular weight and concentration; colloids and particle’s size and concentration; adapting solvent’s composition; and others. A better understanding of the rheological behaviour of formulations and how each ingredient contributes to the final rheological properties of the formulation is key to comprehend product’s behaviour as well as to identify what needs to be modified to achieve enhanced sensorial perception.

 

[1] Silva, A.F., Wood, T.A., Hodgson, D.J.M. et al. Rheological design of thickened alcohol-based hand rubs. Rheol Acta 61, 571–581 (2022)

Speaker

10:30 - 11:30

Coffee & Tea Break

11:00 - 11:30

An Introduction to Nutricosmetics

Discussing the regulatory landscape, claims, and exploring some key considerations in this growing sector.

Speaker

11:30 - 12:00

KEYNOTE – Regulation of Human Skin & Hair Colour: What we know and what we don’t

Melanin synthesis in the human epidermis and hair follicle occurs within melanocyte-specific organelles called melanosomes that are transferred when (relatively) mature to adjacent keratinocytes. Melanin-accepting keratinocytes are distributed in the basal layer (S. basale) of the epidermis, as well as in the anagen hair follicle bulb. In the latter melanin is specifically donated to keratinocytes that will form the bulky cortex of the hair fiber. Only in epidermis is the process of melanogenesis continuous and UVR-protective. By contrast, in the hair follicle this process is tightly coupled to the hair growth cycle and occurs deep in the scalp beyond direct UVR influence.

While hypopigmentary/ hyperpigmentary disorders are not usually of medical consequence, there remains considerable clinical unmet need. Prominent examples for skin pigmentation include;  vitiligo, melasma, solar lentigines etc., while for the hair include aging-related graying or canities, poliosis etc.

The tonal palette of skin and hair colour that is detectable at the skin or hair surface is the product of a complex interplay of multiple biological events, each with their own regulatory control.  While significant progress has been made in our understanding of the phylogenetically-ancient process that is melanin synthesis at cell/molecular biological and biochemical levels, clinical interventions that can consistently and successfully treat pigmentary disorders, be they pathological or physiological (e.g., aging-related), have largely failed to translate from the laboratory to the clinic or salon. Much of this lack of progress must, in my view, be due to poor translatability of mouse studies to humans or to a failure to fully appreciate the often very significant artefacts of conventional cell/tissue and culture technologies and models.

This presentation will attempt to tease out the gaps in our current understanding of how skin and hair pigmentation is regulated in humans and will focus on how exploitation of this incomplete knowledge is being limited by deficiencies in our laboratory models.

Speaker

  • Dr Des Tobin Full Professor of Dermatological Science & Director - University College Dublin
13:30 - 14:00

Exploring the Interplay of Skin Health and Emotional Wellbeing in the Realm of Cosmetic Science

In the emerging landscape of cosmetic science, there is a growing recognition of the interconnectedness between skin health and mental wellbeing. Dr Katerina Steventon has been at the forefront of this industry paradigm shift since 2022. With a focus on holistic approaches to skin health, as a clinician, she has been a pioneer in exploring the intricate relationship between mental and emotional wellbeing and cosmetic products and treatments. As the Director of the Research and Innovation Pillar for the Cosmetic Cluster UK (CCUK), she is dedicated to bringing psychodermatology into the realm of personal care.

Dr Steventon's presentation will delve into the scientific underpinning of new concepts of emotional and mental beauty, mindfulness and selfcare. Through evidence-based insights, she will focus on the skin-brain axis, offering a nuanced understanding of how emotional states influence skin health and vice versa. She will discuss wellbeing metrics relevant to cosmetics application, emphasizing the importance of integrating subjective experiences, such as skin feel and touch, with objective scientific measures. By exploring the sensory dimensions of skincare, she aims to provide valuable insights into how tactile sensations contribute to both physical and psychological wellbeing, including emotional regulation.

Exploring the space where science, beauty and wellbeing meet, Dr Steventon will highlight the importance of a multidisciplinary approach to advance our understanding of skin health and mental wellbeing in the context of cosmetic science.

Speaker

14:00 - 14:30

Sequencing the Skin: Unlocking critical health information from the largest human organ

What are the microbial signatures and ‘dermotypes’ in Atopic Dermatitis? How does the skin microbiome change during ageing, between the US, Europe and Asia? How can we use a growing database of 20K+ microbiome samples and 4K+ ingredients to improve skin health? In this talk, Oliver will share key results and insights they’ve uncovered with next generation sequencing, in diverse clinical studies around the world. Please join Oliver’s talk to hear the answers to these questions, and other exciting advances in clinical microbiome testing.

Speaker

15:00 - 15:30

Understanding the Role of the Skin Microbiome in Skin Barrier Function

In recent years,  the cosmetics industry has leveraged the success of the so-called ‘probiotics’ for use in consumer products. The bacteria utilised are generally lactic acid bacteria, or extracts thereof, which are usually found in the gut.

It is now becoming clear that skins own microbiome contributes extensively to skin health, particularly, skin barrier function. This paves the way for ‘next generation probiotics for skin’ using bacteria from skins own microbiome.

In this talk, I will outline what is currently known regarding the role of the skin microbiome to skin physiology,  and describe some of the work going on in my laboratory investigating the role of the skin microbiome in skins response to ultraviolet radiation.

Speaker

15:30 - 16:00

Impact of Menopause and the Microbiome

The best example of programmed ageing in mammals is demonstrated by ageing in the female reproductive system. The menopause is the result of a transition from full ovarian function to complete lack of oestrogen biosynthesis which occurs in women around the age of 50 years old. Oestrogen significantly modulates skin physiology, thus deficiency following menopause results in atrophic skin changes and acceleration of skin ageing. The microbiome can strongly influence skin physiology and must adapt to changes during the life course. Despite the skin microbiome emerging as a superior biomarker for physiological ageing, understanding how changes in the skin microbiome over the life course impact ageing is still in its infancy.

Speaker