Cosmetic claims are not just a tool for marketing—they are a dynamic intersection of science, regulation, and consumer trust. In this keynote presentation, we will journey through the history of cosmetic claims, from a time when marketing was largely unsubstantiated to the modern era, where scientific validation and regulatory oversight are paramount.

By examining the evolution of these claims, we will uncover key lessons that have shaped today’s regulatory frameworks and industry practices. We will explore how consumer expectations, fuelled by an increasing demand for transparency and efficacy, are challenging the status quo and pushing the boundaries of traditional claims.

Looking to the future, we will examine the transformative impact of emerging technologies—such as advanced biometrics, AI-driven formulations, and in vitro testing—and their potential to redefine how claims are substantiated. What role will sustainability, ethical considerations, and the growing call for social responsibility play in shaping the cosmetic claims landscape?

This keynote will not only provide a comprehensive overview of where we’ve been and where we are but also challenge us to think critically about the ethical and regulatory complexities that lie ahead. Ultimately, it will be for scientists, regulators, and industry leaders to work together to ensure that future claims are not only scientifically accurate but also transparent, sustainable, and reflective of the values of tomorrow's consumers.

The majority of people will experience dry skin at some point in their lives and it can have psychological as well as physical impact on their lives. However, while we call it ‘Dry Skin’ it is not as simple as just a lack of water, with a host of physical and chemical changes contributing to it. This talk will provide an overview of dry skin, its causes, what it is (and is not) as well as how it is measured and assessed.

Developing sustainable solutions for hair conditioning has been our focus for the past ten years, which involves a multiscale investigation covering both molecular, meso- and consumer scale measurements. In this talk, I will focus on our recent work in utilizing botanical oil as alternative to conventional silicone, presenting the considerations on deposition, wetting, and lubrication properties.