Thi Quynh Tien Pham ¹, Carly Musleh, Paul Carter and Amanda Solaiman ^{1 *}

1 – School of Cosmetic Science, University of Sunderland, Sunderland SR1 3SD, England
* Correspondence: Amanda.solaiman@sunderland.ac.uk

Background: Hair is an integral part of the body as it serves numerous functions. Among hair care products, shampoos play a critical role in cleansing and maintaining healthy hair. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is a well-known surfactant that is very effective at removing dirt, but it can also strip the hair of its natural oils, resulting in scalp irritation and damage to the hair. There is a growing shift toward sulphate-free shampoo formulations, driven by consumer demand. This research aimed to develop and optimise two types of shampoos: one containing SLES and a sulfate-free variant containing Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate. The study assessed the effect of surfactant type on the shampoo’s performance and hair health. Additionally, hydrolysed lupine peptide, a bioactive ingredient known for its moisturising and strengthening properties, was incorporated into the SLES formulation to evaluate the potential benefits of enhancing hair strength and elasticity.

Methodology: The physicochemical tests consisted of sensory evaluation, pH measurement, foam volume, viscosity, and hair tensile strength measurements. These tests were conducted on three shampoo formulations: SLES, sulfate-free, and SLES incorporated with lupine. For sensory evaluation tests, odour, clarity, and colour were evaluated for all formulations. Foam volume was measured using a 1% shampoo solution using a cylinder shake method. Times were recorded at 30 seconds, 1 minute, 1 minute, and 30 seconds and 2 minutes. The viscosity of all shampoos was measured by using a Brookfield Viscometer, using the spindle T64 at different speeds. The pH was measured by using a HALO2 Wireless pH tester and recorded weekly.

Hair tresses were treated with three formulations and then measured by FDAS770 and MTT690 Dia-Stron instruments to assess the elasticity and strength after 1 and 3 cycle washes.

Results: All formulations showed similarities in terms of odour, clarity and foam volume. However, both the lupine peptide-based shampoo and the sulfate-free shampoo generated more lather compared to SLES. All formulations showed non-Newtonian shear thinning behavior. The pH of shampoo formulations was compatible with the skin’s pH, ranging from 5.5 to 5.89 with the purpose of maintaining the hair and the scalp healthy, and no significant change in pH after each week, indicating the stability of the formulations. Findings from hair tensile strength and elasticity indicate that the shampoo containing lupine and sulfate-free shampoo performed better than the traditional SLES formulation especially after 3 cycle washes (184.82, 174.0, and 170.33 MPa respectively).

Conclusion: Through all evaluations, SLES contributes essential properties for shampoo; however, the lupine shampoo and sulfate-free variant create a promising field for modern shampoo formulation in nourishing and maintaining healthy hair.

Ghaida Mustafa ^{a b*}, Bhagyashree Kamble ^{a c}, Shankar Katekhaye ^c, Mohammed Bensharada ^d, James Fearnley ^c, Anant Paradkar ^a

a – Centre for Pharmaceutical Engineering Science, School of Pharmacy, University of Bradford, Richmond Road, Bradford BD7 1DP, UK.
b – Department of Pharmaceutics, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Khartoum, Qasr Avenue, Khartoum, Sudan.
c – Natures laboratory, Whitby, YO22 4NH, UK.
d – Analytical Centre, Faculty of life sciences, University of Bradford, Richmond Road, Bradford BD7 1DP, UK.

Currently, there is a global trend towards the use of natural materials with valuable medicinal activities as safe substitutes for synthetic substances in dermatological and cosmetic products. Propolis is a natural beehive haemostat, synthesised by bees from plant exudates and other materials such as pollen, bee saliva and wax to seal holes and cracks in the hive.

From the ancient Egyptian time, propolis has been used traditionally for many purposes such as mummification and beautification. Numerous medicinal activities have been reported for propolis, interestingly antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV protection and antiaging properties. These properties can be utilized to formulate novel natural-based generations of sunscreens, antiaging preparations, and wound healing products from propolis. Hundreds of compounds have been detected in raw propolis, however, most of the identified medicinal properties of propolis are linked to the presence of phenolic acids and flavonoids. The chemical composition of propolis varies according to altitude, climate, botanical origin of plant exudates, bee species and extraction solvent. Therefore, one of the bottleneck hurdles in the formulation of propolis is the standardization of the raw materials.

This study focuses on the assessment of two propolis samples from India and Turkey as cosmetic preparations pre-formulation assay. Samples were gifted by Nature’s Laboratory, Whitby, UK. Moisture and ash contents were analysed using Thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA) from 25 – 525 °C to understand the thermal behaviour of raw materials and to check their authentication (ash content). The presence of wax materials and phenolic compounds bands was detected by Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR). RP-HPLC was used to detect the presence of the flavonoid chrysin, and two phenolic acids (caffeic acid and ferulic acid) which are commonly related to the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV protection and antiaging properties of propolis.
TGA results revealed that, both samples comply with regulatory requirements for moisture and ash contents. FTIR data shows that wax specific bands (2916, 2848 and 1736 cm -10 were of similar intensity between Indian and Turkish samples, however Turkish sample exhibits more intense phenolic compounds bands (1601, 1515, 1373, 1028 and 830 cm -1). RP-HPLC assay confirmed the presence of chrysin in both raw samples while caffeic acid was detected only in Turkish sample and ferulic acid was identified in Indian sample only.

These data will provide a standardized profile of the analysed raw propolis samples, offer an initial guidance in the rational selection of the propolis formulation technique and allow the monitoring of the desired compounds for cosmetic formulations.

Ferdos Ali¹

1 – Newcastle University, UK. Supervisor: Professor Mark Birch-Machin

Background: Variation in skin colour is the most noticeable of human polymorphisms yet skin’s primary functions of maintaining homeostasis, defence against environmental insults (solar ultraviolet radiation, pollution, ozone). Historically, skin biology research has mostly focussed on white Northern European skin. However, from limited research on more pigmented skin it is apparent that there are differences in facial ageing appearance and response to environmental stressors. Therefore, it is imperative that we understand the fundamental biology of skin across the entire spectrum of pigmentation.

Aims: Investigating how external stressors such as sun exposure affect skin ageing in different skin types.

Methods: Cell viability of skin cells including epidermal melanocytes and dermal fibroblasts was assessed 24 hours after exposure to increasing doses of a full solar spectrum using MTS assays. In addition to fibroblast cell line (HDFn), non-pigmented A375 and moderately pigmented FM55 human melanoma cell lines were used to represent differently pigmented skin cells. Irradiation was carried out using Newport oriel solar simulator with 1000W output. Doses of the solar light were expressed as standard erythemal doses (SEDs).

Results: All three cell lines showed a significant decrease in cell viability as the doses of the full solar increased despite cell type or pigmentation level. However, non-pigmented A375 and mildly pigmented FM55 cell lines were shown to be more resistant to the irradiation than HDFns as the 2.16 SED led to 50% reduction in the cell viability of the fibroblasts whereas it caused around 35% reduction in the cell viability of the melanocytes.

Conclusion: Exposure to increasing doses of solar light negatively affects the cell viability of skin cells despite their type or level of pigmentation. Overall, this suggests that photoprotective measures should be taken regardless of the skin type.

Shu Min Leticia Song¹, Maria Teresa Borrello¹*

1 – School of Cosmetic Science, University of Sunderland, Sunderland SR1 3SD, England
* Correspondence: Maria.Borrello@sunderland.ac.uk; Tel.: +44-748-5750-448

Abstract: Carthamus tinctorius L., commonly known as Safflower, is a thistle-like annual plant characterized by its distinctive orange flowers. It is widely used as a natural dye and colouring agent in food and cosmetics. Historically, Safflower has been used to soothe problematic skin and reduce inflammation. However, only a few studies have explored its dermatological properties. Safflower seed oil (SSO) contains luteolin, 6-hydroxykaempferol, quercetin-7-O-(6-O-acetyl)-β-D-glucopyranoside, and is particularly rich in linoleic, oleic, and linolenic acids. These components contribute to its potential use in dermatological products due to their biological activities.

We aim to uncover the potential of safflower seed oil (SSO) in promoting cell proliferation, its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing properties, which could be beneficial in the treatment of skin conditions. Our results on human keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT and CCD1106 KERTr) report that SSO possesses proliferative properties and ensures cell viability. SSO also displayed potent antioxidant effects. Two methods were used to study the antioxidant capacity of the oil. SSO demonstrated significant free radical scavenging ability against 1,1-Diphenyl-2-Picrylhydrazyl Radical (DPPH). This was further supported by an in vitro assay where HaCaT cells were challenged with hydrogen peroxide, suggesting its potential as an antioxidant agent. Additionally, the anti-inflammatory potential of SSO was evaluated by measuring the inhibition of nitric oxide (NO) production using the Griess reagent method, where NO was generated from sodium nitroprusside. The results displayed that SSO contributes to decreased inflammation. Finally, we report that SSO accelerated wound closure and significantly increased cell migration at low concentrations (1 mg/mL) over a 24-hour treatment. Furthermore, SSO treatment displayed a synergistic effect when paired with Allantoin, a known agent used for wound healing properties.

This research presents promising preliminary findings on safflower seed oil for its use in the treatment of complex skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis and include SSO in cosmetic and dermatological formulations for problematic skin.

Maria Koutsanastasi¹, Shu Min Leticia Song¹, Maria Teresa Borrello¹

1 – School of Cosmetic Science, University of Sunderland, Sunderland SR1 3SD, England
* Correspondence: Maria.Borrello@sunderland.ac.uk; Tel.: +44-748-5750-448

Abstract: Oleocanthal (OC), chemically known as 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)ethyl (E,3R)-4-formyl-3-(2-oxoethyl)hex-4-enoate, is a rare polyphenol found in olive oil, constituting only about 10% of its composition. First discovered in 1992, this compound is garnering significant scientific interest due to its promising biological activities, particularly in cancer and nutrition research. An increasing body of evidence highlights the antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative properties of OC, making it an ideal candidate for dermatological applications, especially in the treatment of problematic skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

The aim of this project is to elucidate the biochemical properties of oleocanthal, focusing on its effects on cell proliferation, cytotoxic profile, and its antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing properties, which could be beneficial in the treatment of various skin conditions. Our experiments utilized two human keratinocyte cell lines, HaCaT and CCD1106 KERTr. The results demonstrated a decrease in cell proliferation without compromising cell viability, suggesting that oleocanthal can act as an effective antiproliferative agent. Specifically, over a 96-hour assay, a deceleration in the growth of HaCaT cells was observed when dosed with micromolar concentration, reinforcing the potential of oleocanthal as a therapeutic agent for skin conditions such as psoriasis, where the high proliferation of keratinocytes is the main driving cause of the disease. OC displayed no toxicity on cell viability when dosed at high concentrations. In addition, an antioxidant assay using 1,1-Diphenyl-2-Picrylhydrazyl Radical (DPPH) has shown that OC has strong antioxidant activities at low doses. The antioxidant activities were further corroborated in vitro using HaCaT and CCD1106 KERTr cell lines challenged with hydrogen peroxide. OC clearly demonstrated its ability to protect the cells from the noxious oxidant activity of the peroxidase. The antimicrobial efficacy of oleocanthal was evaluated against four skin non-pathogenic bacterial strains. Results showed that it displayed clear antimicrobial activity.

This study offers promising evidence of the benefits of oleocanthal that can be applied as a cosmetic ingredient in formulations for both normal and injured skin. Further research through more extensive in vitro studies and skin disease models is warranted to fully understand the potential of the compound.

Zainab Patel¹

1 – De Montford University, UK

Chitosan polymer films modified with glycerol, vitamin c and retinol were prepared using the casting method. The aim was to investigate and explore the impact of adding glycerol (0.2% w/v), retinol, and vitamin c (in the concentrations of 0.2 and 0.4% w/v) and the physical, mechanical, and structural properties; the films were characterised using various tests. Physical properties were investigated by studying the thickness, colour, and opaqueness of the film. Mechanical properties such as tensile strength and swelling content were tested; SEM and FTIR methods were also used to study the structural properties by inspecting the composition of the films. The results indicated that the thickness of the films increased with the addition of 0.2% w/v of vitamin c and retinol; the films containing vitamin c exhibited an orange colour due to the oxidation of vitamin c. The inclusion of 0.4% w/v of vitamin c and retinol created an opaquer film, whereas the addition of 0.2% w/v glycerol created a more transparent film. The tensile film results showed that the addition of glycerol improved film flexibility and the inclusion of 0.2% w/v of vitamin and retinol to the films required a greater force of 4.5 N and 6.4 N to break compared to those with 0.4% w/v inclusion. All the films with the addition of glycerol, vitamin c and retinol swelled less compared to the pure chitosan film. FTIR spectra indicated all films to have similar peaks with inclusion of 0.2% w/v vitamin c and retinol showing enhanced peaks; the inclusion of vitamin c and retinol resulted in a textured edge and smooth surface morphology which could be seen using the SEM. Overall the study expands the understanding of chitosan film modifications including the functional benefits and negative impacts they add to the film.

Chalisa Supjaroenporn^{1 2}, Maria Teresa Borrello¹, and Nuntawat Khat-Udomkiri ²

1 – School of Cosmetic Science, University of Sunderland, Sunderland SR1 3SD, England
2 – School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand

Abstract: Environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional solvents are increasingly sought by both industry and academia. In the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, the processes for extracting bioactive compounds from plant material still heavily rely on organic solvents. The growing emphasis on sustainability, the development of more eco-friendly products, and heightened consumer awareness of environmental impacts are driving the ever-growing research into novel extraction methods. Polyols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol are gaining interest as green alternatives to organic solvents. A growing body of evidence shows that these polyols can facilitate the dissolution of bioactive components of plant material comparably to organic solvents. This study aims to compare the efficiency of Ultrasonic-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and conventional Maceration (MAR) using ethanol (UAEE, MARE) and aqueous-glycerine-butylene glycol mixture (UAEG, MARG) to extract the bioactive components of Vitex trifolia L. (VT). VT is a widely distributed tropical shrub in northern Thailand, commonly used in traditional Thai medicine to treat various ailments and skin conditions. Over 300 compounds have been isolated from VT, including terpenoids, flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, phenolic acids, and steroids. Various phenolic substances, such as kaempferol-3-O-glucoside, luteolin, and ferulic acid, have been identified as having significant wound healing properties and important antioxidant and anti-aging activities, making them suitable for inclusion in dermatological products.

To test the extract biological activities we used two human keratinocyte cell lines. Both extracts showed no toxicity at high concentrations in both cell lines. In addition, UAEG and MAEG extracts exhibited high scavenging activity when cells were challenged with hydrogen peroxide, demonstrating significant antioxidant capacity. Furthermore, the extracts had strong wound healing properties, promoting a complete wound closure in a wound healing assay after only 20 hours of treatment.

The study aims to introduce a new environmentally friendly extraction technique that could be applied to other natural products for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Additionally, it seeks to further explore the dermatological benefits of VT extracts. Finally, the study aims to enhance the economy of the Mae Fah Luang region in Thailand by exploring the potential of introducing these active ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

R. Baker¹, R. Williams¹, G.E. Westgate¹, A.D. Pawlus², J. Zguris², M.J. Thornton¹

1 – Centre for Skin Sciences, Faculty of Life Sciences, University of Bradford, Bradford, UK
2 – Aveda, Hair Innovation & Technology, Minneapolis, USA

With age, female scalp undergoes significant structural and molecular changes. We previously reported the dermal environment impacts the ageing hair follicle (Williams et al, J Invest Dermatol, 141: 1041-1051; 2021). We hypothesise this is a key driver of the hair ageing phenotype.

Using single cell RNA sequencing and proteomics we compared early passage (P3) dermal sheath (DS) and dermal papilla (DP) cells cultured from young (20-23yrs) and older (57-77yrs) female scalp.

Differences in the aged DS transcriptome included diminished DS signature genes, mesenchymal, vascularization and contractibility genes, with increased expression of senescence-associated genes. Contraction-related proteins e.g., smoothelin were also reduced with age. Differences in the aged DP transcriptome highlighted lower expression of genes related to hair follicle cycle oscillators, e.g., endoglin, and inhibitors of differentiation e.g. ID2 and ID3. Proteomic analysis confirmed a significantly number of differentially expressed proteins in DP cells (290) compared to DS cells (11) between the two age groups. Cell Chat pathway analysis of the single cell RNA sequencing data identified alterations to the intercellular signalling between old and young populations of DS and DP cells. The signalling strength of GAS6, Osteopontin, NOTCH and Prostaglandin signalling pathways was notably altered with age in the DS cells. Analysis of the DP cells indicated alterations to the GAS6, WNT, Prostaglandin, Midkine and CD46 pathways with increasing age.

Loss of DS signature, including contractibility, suggests a reduced mechanical capacity to support a terminal hair follicle and remodeling during anagen and catagen. The significantly greater diversity in ageing DP cell populations compared to DS cells, highlight the molecular and functional differences between these two specialized hair follicle fibroblasts, and underline the importance of the DP in driving signals regulating hair follicle oscillation and cycling.

Jaana Ailus¹,

1 – Liverpool John Moores University, UK

Background info
This work examines the ethnobotanical history and scientific potential of Epilobium angustifolium, commonly known as fireweed, as a valuable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. E. angustifolium claims a long history of traditional use across Northern Europe, Asia, and North America for its therapeutic properties, including wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects.

Aims
The presentation analyses the existing scientific evidence supporting the use of E. angustifolium in skin care, focusing on its potential benefits in moisturisers, serums, shampoos, sun protection products, and exfoliants. Furthermore, the safety considerations and regulatory status of E. angustifolium in cosmetics, highlighting its favourable safety profile and long history of use are evaluated.

Furthermore, different E. angustifolium extracts, from different raw material suppliers, were analysed in terms of their composition, solubility, recommended usage levels, and potential applications in different cosmetic formulations. The different E. angustifolium extracts under scrutiny all have different marketing claims and are targeted at different methods of action. This presentation looks at how the marketing claims are supported by the existing literature.

Methods
Cosmetic ingredient databases were investigated to access the information for the E. angustifolium extracts. Raw material supplier data and formulation guidelines were also reviewed. Scientific journals and other publications were reviewed to gain understanding of the chemical composition and historical usage of E. angustifolium. Three simple formulations were created and manufactured, each incorporating one of the E. angustifolium extracts.

Results and discussion
This work took into consideration three different E. angustifolium extracts. One was water-based, one was oil-based, and one was in powder form. Notably, these three E. angustifolium extracts showcase a diverse range of effects, including anti-irritant, skin soothing, anti-acne, anti-redness, and scalp health benefits. Although all three extracts are of the same plant, their solubility, and therefore their theoretical chemical components vary.
Three very different cosmetic products were formulated, each containing the recommended amount of the E. angustifolium extract. The products formulated were a serum, an emulsion and a balm, showcasing how E. angustifolium extract can lend itself to very different formulation types and multiple different ways of use.

Conclusion
The work concludes by outlining future research directions, including optimizing extraction techniques for maximizing desired constituents, investigating the potential of specific flavonoids and triterpenes for skin benefits, and exploring synergistic effects with other ingredients.

Filipa de Castro^{1 2}, Andrej Kováčik², Márcio Rodrigues¹, Gilberto Alves¹

1 – Faculty of Health Sciences, University of Beira Interior, Av. Infante D. Henrique, Covilhã, Portugal
2 – Faculty of Pharmacy in Hradec Králové, Charles University, Akademika Heyrovského 1203/8, 500 03 Hradec Králové 3, Czechia

The major function of the human skin is to protect the body against water loss and to prevent negative substances from entering it. This function is localised into the uppermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, which follows the “brick and mortar” model. An equimolar ratio of skin barrier lipids (Ceramides (Cer), Free Fatty Acids, and Cholesterol) is significant for epidermal homeostasis, therefore changes in the lipid content negatively influence the barrier properties. Lower portions of the skin barrier lipids, including Acylceramides, are typical for skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis. One possible treatment and relief for the symptoms is the topical application of barrier lipids. In this work, we aimed to develop a skin lipid-based formulation, considering different types of Cer-based formulations applied to healthy and disrupted models of the skin barrier. Throughout permeability experiments in human stratum corneum, the barrier properties were studied using Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and electrical impedance (EI). Using the Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy we aimed to investigate the microstructure of studied healthy, disrupted and repaired models of stratum corneum. The changes in the TEWL values were in the majority statistically significant, however, there was more water being lost after applying the lipid-based formulation. The EI measurements correlated with the TEWL as the values decreased, indicating that the skin integrity was compromised. In contrast with
these results, the FTIR experiment revealed how the topical application of the selected Cer-based formulations positively changed the lipid chain order. However, these findings did not correlate with the values of the TEWL and EI. Overall, the results showed that the topically applied barrier lipids had a direct interaction with the skin barrier since it increased the lipids chain order that is necessary for the correct barrier function, although it did not positively change the barrier properties. The obtained results may be useful in the skin barrier (patho)physiology investigation and further support other studies developing the topically applied barrier lipids.