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Student Poster Competition

This year sees an extremely high level of interest and innovation – abstracts are available in the SCS Conference Programme, which can be previewed ahead of the event.

• Exploring the Potential of 3D Printing in Cosmetics: Dual-Material 3D Printing for Innovative Skin Patches
o Yimeng Jiao, London College of Fashion

• Solid Ethylcellulose Oleogels as a Potential Waterless Alternative in Skincare
o Raheema Mulla-Bala, London College of Fashion, UK

• The Effects of Lupine Peptide on the Tensile Strength and Appearance of Bleached Hair
o Hana Chi, University of Sunderland, UK

• Evaluation of Topical Formulation Based on Ceramides and Study of its Effect on the Skin Barrier Properties
o Filipa de Castro, University of Beira Interior, Portugal

• Harnessing the Power of Fireweed: A Comparison of Three Raw Materials Containing Epilobium Angustifolium
o Jaana Ailus, Liverpool John Moores University, UK

• Identification of Age-Related Changes to the Transcriptional and Proteomic Profiles of Cultured Dermal Papilla and Dermal Sheath Cells
o Richard Baker, University of Bradford, UK

• Green Extraction Methods Utilizing Polyols and Dermatological Benefits of Vitex trifolia L. Extracts
o Chalisa Supjaroenporn, University of Sunderland, UK

• Chitosan Based Films Incorporating Glycerol, Vitamin C and Retinol – Preparation, Physical and Chemical Properties
o Zainab Patel, De Montford University, UK

• Oleocanthal: A Promising Polyphenol from Olive Oil for Dermatological Applications and Cosmetic Formulations
o Shu Min Leticia Song, University of Sunderland, UK

• From Antioxidation to Wound Healing: The Comprehensive Benefits of Safflower Seed Oil in Dermatological Applications
o Shu Min Leticia Song, University of Sunderland, UK

• Investigating the Effects of External Stressors on Aging Biomarkers in Different Skin Types
Ferdos Ali, Univerisity of Newcastle, UK

• Evaluation of Two Raw Indian and Turkish Propolis Samples as Pre-Formulation Study for Cosmetic Preparations
o Ghaida Mustafa, University of Bradford, UK

• Formulation and Comparative Analysis of Shampoos Containing Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate on Hair Strength and Elasticity
o Thi Quynh Tien Pham, University of Sunderland, UK

Skin Science

The Skin Science sessions explore the links between skin health and emotional wellbeing, the development of technologies for exploring skin microbiome, the role of the microbiome in skin health, and the effects of menopause on the skin microbiome and the skin. Lots of stimulating topics to send you on your way home with your minds buzzing with ideas!

Seminars

13:30 - 14:00

Exploring the Interplay of Skin Health and Emotional Wellbeing in the Realm of Cosmetic Science

In the emerging landscape of cosmetic science, there is a growing recognition of the interconnectedness between skin health and mental well-being. Dr Katerina Steventon has been at the forefront of this industry paradigm shift since 2022. With a focus on holistic approaches to skin health, she has been a pioneer in exploring the intricate relationship between mental and emotional well-being and cosmetic products and treatments. As the Director of the Research and Innovation Pillar for the Cosmetic Cluster UK (CCUK), she is dedicated to bringing psychodermatology into the realm of personal care. Dr Steventon’s presentation delves into the scientific underpinnings of new concepts in emotional and mental beauty, mindfulness, and self-care. Through evidence-based insights, she highlights the role of the skin-brain axis and their reciprocal communication. Her focus on facial touch in skincare routines reveals that gentle, slow, and warm touch activates the specialised sensory C-tactile afferent fibres in the skin. Triggered hormonal release is associated with emotional well-being; oxytocin enhances feelings of trust and emotional security, whilst reduced cortisol levels alleviate stress and anxiety. New evidence demonstrates that self-facial massage techniques, incl. effleurage, stretching, and reflexology, can promote relaxation, positively impact sleep quality, and also boost self-confidence, self-acceptance, and a positive outlook on life. Dr Steventon underscores the significance of integrating subjective experience of facial self-touch with objective measures, such as electroencephalography (EEG), heart rate variability (HRV), and systemic hormonal levels in future research. Exploring the space where science, beauty, and well-being meet, Dr Steventon highlights the importance of a multidisciplinary approach to advance our understanding of skin health and mental well-being in the context of cosmetic science.

Speaker

14:00 - 14:30

Sequencing the Skin: Unlocking critical health information from the largest human organ

What are the microbial signatures and ‘dermotypes’ in Atopic Dermatitis? How does the skin microbiome change during ageing, between the US, Europe and Asia? How can we use a growing database of 20K+ microbiome samples and 4K+ ingredients to improve skin health? In this talk, Oliver will share key results and insights they’ve uncovered with next generation sequencing, in diverse clinical studies around the world. Please join Oliver’s talk to hear the answers to these questions, and other exciting advances in clinical microbiome testing.

Speaker

14:30 - 15:00

Coffee & Tea Break

15:00 - 15:30

Understanding the Role of the Skin Microbiome in Skin Barrier Function

In recent years,  the cosmetics industry has leveraged the success of the so-called ‘probiotics’ for use in consumer products. The bacteria utilised are generally lactic acid bacteria, or extracts thereof, which are usually found in the gut. It is now becoming clear that skins own microbiome contributes extensively to skin health, particularly, skin barrier function. This paves the way for ‘next generation probiotics for skin’ using bacteria from skins own microbiome. In this talk, I will outline what is currently known regarding the role of the skin microbiome to skin physiology,  and describe some of the work going on in my laboratory investigating the role of the skin microbiome in skins response to ultraviolet radiation.

Speaker

15:30 - 16:00

Impact of Menopause and the Microbiome

The best example of programmed ageing in mammals is demonstrated by ageing in the female reproductive system. The menopause is the result of a transition from full ovarian function to complete lack of oestrogen biosynthesis which occurs in women around the age of 50 years old. Oestrogen significantly modulates skin physiology, thus deficiency following menopause results in atrophic skin changes and acceleration of skin ageing. The microbiome can strongly influence skin physiology and must adapt to changes during the life course. Despite the skin microbiome emerging as a superior biomarker for physiological ageing, understanding how changes in the skin microbiome over the life course impact ageing is still in its infancy.

Speaker

Product Science & Product Evaluation

The formulation of high quality and innovative cosmetic products is a complex business, and relies on a deep understanding of raw materials, product science and product evaluation. This session covers everything from the sourcing of more green and sustainable ingredients, to formulating better skin care products, to making effective nutricosmetic products.

Seminars

09:00 - 09:30

KEYNOTE – Green Chemistry & Cosmetics

Green Chemistry and Cosmetics The drive for improved sustainability credentials in cosmetics fuelled both by consumer interest and the potential impact of future legislation around, for example micropollutants, is well-known. Several current topics of research in the field of green chemistry – that is chemistry focussed of the design of products and processes that minimise or eliminate the use and generation of hazardous substances – will be explored. Solvents What makes a solvent green? One can consider many aspects. Perhaps a full lifecycle analysis, or a balance of health hazards, whether or not it is bio-based, or biodegradable, whether it gives rise to VOC emissions, or has an aquatic impact,  whether it is flammable or explosive, or otherwise reactive and indeed the impacts those solvent properties may have on the processes in which it is used, or products in which it is a component. Some existing solvents currently in use in cosmetics will be critiqued - including instances where they have been applied in other fields after cosmetics led the way, and some newer biobased solvents, potentially of relevance to application in cosmetics, will be profiled. Polymers in Liquid Formulations Polymers in liquid formulations have an estimated global value of $1.3 trillion pa, with 36 million tonnes being made annually: enough to fill Wembley Stadium 32 times over. As part of an EPSRC/BBSRC Prosperity Partnership collaboration between Croda, the University of Nottingham and the University of York, we have recently been preparing a library of novel bioderived monomers, making those monomers into polymers and are working towards exploring their biodegradability as it is critical that we understand the wider sustainability credentials of these materials and how they might compare with current products. Peptides Solid phase peptide synthesis is traditionally highly wasteful - requiring large volumes of undesirable solvent.  We are working to explore both more sustainable solvent choices – and more efficient coupling conditions compatible with those choices.

Speaker

  • Prof. Helen Sneddon Professor in Sustainable Chemistry & Director of the Green Chemistry - University of York

09:30 - 10:00

The Challenges of Delivering Cosmetic Actives – Role of the formulator

The skin has evolved to keep water in and other xenobiotics or foreign substances out. The outer layer, the stratum corneum, is a unique membrane that is about a sixth of the thickness of a piece of paper.  It is composed of dead cells that are filled with keratin and are very dense in nature. Today we understand that it is this thin membrane that is the major barrier to effective targeting of actives from topical formulations. Targeting of actives to specific regions of the epidermis and dermis is the ‘holy grail’ of skin delivery. However, skin penetration of most actives often does not exceed more than 2-4% of the applied amount. Partly this reflects a lack of focus on the vehicle and a lack of awareness that the fate of the active is linked inextricably to specific carrier components of the formulation. No single formulation can address the competing requirements of the diverse array of compounds we find in personal care and cosmetic products. Instead, consideration must be given to the solubility of the active in vehicle components as well as the residence time of those vehicle components in the skin. The overarching theme of my research is the identification of vehicle components that are optimal for a specific active. Over the years my work has demonstrated the utility of this approach using both in vitro and in vivo studies. Advances in the range and sensitivity of analytical techniques available to scientists are already providing better insights into vehicle effects on skin delivery of actives. Building on these findings, we should be optimistic about our ability to create better and more efficacious formulations for consumers.

Speaker

  • Majella Lane PhD Director, Skin Research Group - School of Pharmacy, University College London

10:00 - 10:30

Rheological Principles to Predict Sensorial Properties of Topical and Hair Formulations

The sensorial properties of skin and hair care products play a key role on consumer’s acceptability of the products. In a previous work [1] we have set design principles for hand sanitiser formulations relating rheological properties and hand feel experience: low runoff, spreadability, smoothness and non-stickiness. In this work we investigate the rheological properties of different topical and hair care formulations and access if the same design principles can be applied to those formulations. Shear and extensional rheological measurements were performed on different topical and hair commercial products. Rheological experiments are informative of the deformation and flow behaviour of the material and how it responds to different applied stresses. Shear rheology tells us about the viscoelastic properties of the material when subjected to shear deformations, whereas extensional rheology can show us the material’s response when stretched/extended. Both type of flows can be generated while applying topical and hair care formulations. Steady shear rheology was measured using a Kinexus Ultra+ (NETZSCH), using a 40 mm smooth and/or sandblasted cone-plate 1° geometry, and a 40 mm Crosshatch plate-plate geometry. When possible, the extensional properties of the formulations were obtained using a Capillary Breakup Extensional Rheometer (ThermoFisher) using 6 mm plates. Results show that not all the topical and hair formulations tested follow all the four design principles proposed in our previous work, which for some products could be expected based on their formulation’s composition. Most of the formulations that passed the smoothness criteria, that is satisfied if the formulation has a measurable First Normal Stress Difference at high shear rates [1], have polymers in their composition. The rheology and sensorial performance of topical formulations can be improved by changing or adjusting the formulation ingredients properties, such as the polymer’s molecular weight and concentration; colloids and particle’s size and concentration; adapting solvent’s composition; and others. A better understanding of the rheological behaviour of formulations and how each ingredient contributes to the final rheological properties of the formulation is key to comprehend product’s behaviour as well as to identify what needs to be modified to achieve enhanced sensorial perception.   [1] Silva, A.F., Wood, T.A., Hodgson, D.J.M. et al. Rheological design of thickened alcohol-based hand rubs. Rheol Acta 61, 571–581 (2022)

Speaker

10:30 - 11:00

Coffee & Tea Break

11:00 - 11:30

An Introduction to Nutricosmetics

Discussing the regulatory landscape, claims, and exploring some key considerations in this growing sector.

Speaker

11:30 - 12:00

KEYNOTE – Regulation of Human Skin & Hair Colour: What we know and what we don’t

Melanin synthesis in the human epidermis and hair follicle occurs within melanocyte-specific organelles called melanosomes that are transferred when (relatively) mature to adjacent keratinocytes. Melanin-accepting keratinocytes are distributed in the basal layer (S. basale) of the epidermis, as well as in the anagen hair follicle bulb. In the latter melanin is specifically donated to keratinocytes that will form the bulky cortex of the hair fiber. Only in epidermis is the process of melanogenesis continuous and UVR-protective. By contrast, in the hair follicle this process is tightly coupled to the hair growth cycle and occurs deep in the scalp beyond direct UVR influence. While hypopigmentary/ hyperpigmentary disorders are not usually of medical consequence, there remains considerable clinical unmet need. Prominent examples for skin pigmentation include;  vitiligo, melasma, solar lentigines etc., while for the hair include aging-related graying or canities, poliosis etc. The tonal palette of skin and hair colour that is detectable at the skin or hair surface is the product of a complex interplay of multiple biological events, each with their own regulatory control.  While significant progress has been made in our understanding of the phylogenetically-ancient process that is melanin synthesis at cell/molecular biological and biochemical levels, clinical interventions that can consistently and successfully treat pigmentary disorders, be they pathological or physiological (e.g., aging-related), have largely failed to translate from the laboratory to the clinic or salon. Much of this lack of progress must, in my view, be due to poor translatability of mouse studies to humans or to a failure to fully appreciate the often very significant artefacts of conventional cell/tissue and culture technologies and models. This presentation will attempt to tease out the gaps in our current understanding of how skin and hair pigmentation is regulated in humans and will focus on how exploitation of this incomplete knowledge is being limited by deficiencies in our laboratory models.

Speaker

  • Dr Des Tobin Full Professor of Dermatological Science & Director - University College Dublin

Hair Care Products & Heat Styling Devices

Hair care products are the second largest sector in the cosmetics industry. In this session we will go from the fascinating discoveries being made in the areas of hair conditioning and hair growth, to the high-tech world of advanced heat styling appliances.

Seminars

15:30 - 16:00

KEYNOTE – Virtual Screening of the Tribology of Hair Care Formulations

Shampoos and conditioners form part of many people’s daily routine. These complex formulated products aim to cleanse and repair the hair surface to maintain a satisfactory look and feel. Huge volumes of these products are sold every year and the global hair care market is valued at close to $100B. There is currently a industry-wide drive to improve the environmental credentials (e.g. biodegradability, biocompatibility, and sustainability) of hair care products, without compromising their performance. Molecular simulations are seen as an important tool with which to reduce the cost and increase the speed of R&D towards more eco-friendly products compared to laboratory-based methods and panel testing. In this talk, I will present a coarse-grained molecular dynamics framework to study adsorption, wettability [1], and friction [2] of hair care ingredients on biomimetic hair surfaces. I will present results for simple surfactants [3], polymers, and polymer-surfactant complexes [4]. Ongoing work to generalise the methodology to enable virtual screening of the performance of potential new hair care ingredients and formulations will also be discussed.   References: [1] Weiand et al., Soft Matter, 2022, 18, 1779 (https://doi.org/10.1039/d1sm01720a) [2] Weiand et al., Nanoscale, 2023, 15, 7086 (https://doi.org/10.1039/d2nr05545g) [3] Weiand et al., PCCP, 2023, 25, 21916 (https://doi.org/10.1039/D3CP02546B) [4] Weiand et al., ChemRxiv, 2023 (https://doi.org/10.26434/chemrxiv-2023-9c6fz)

Speaker

16:00 - 16:30

The Human Hair Follicle Cycle Exogen Phase

Hair is closely linked to feeling of health, wellbeing, and beauty, and is the ultimate tool of self-expression. Problems associated with hair growth and loss include: a reduction in follicle density; follicle miniaturisation resulting in weaker and finer hairs which break more easily; thinner hair fibres leading to feeling of reduced volume; slower hair growth; and excessive shedding. The human hair follicle is a regenerating biological system whose primary function is to produce a hair fibre. The hair growth cycle consists of 3 key phases: growth (anagen), regression (catagen) and rest (telogen), which occur continuously throughout the follicle lifetime. During catagen, the growing fibre produced in anagen becomes detached from the follicular matrix and is subsequently referred to as the ‘club fibre’. The club fibre eventually sheds from the follicle in a process termed exogen. A multitude of underlying biological pathways and signalling molecules control the different phases of the human hair follicle cycle. The vast majority of hair biology research, spanning several decades, has focused on the hair growth cycle, whilst little attention has been devoted to studying the mechanisms involved in exogen. Understanding the factors that control exogen may shed light on routes to mitigate excessive hair shedding. Reports support the role of protease enzymes such as serine proteases in the mechanism of action during hair shedding. Retention of the club fibre in the follicle is thought to involved enzyme inhibitors such as plasminogen activator inhibitor type 2 [1] and tissue inhibitor of metalloprotease 3 [1]. We have confirmed expression of serine proteases around the human hair follicle, in addition to confirming protease activity in the material extracted from human club fibre bulbs. Furthermore, we have shown inhibition of protease activity in vitro in club fibre bulb extracts using known serine protease inhibitors. In this presentation we will aim to showcase the vital role these enzymes play during hair shedding, and how inhibition of excess levels offers a potential means for retention of club hairs, and consequently a reduction in excessive hair fall. [1] Lavker RM, Risse B, Brown H, et al., Localization of plasminogen activator inhibitor type 2 (PAI-2) in hair and nail: implications for terminal differentiation [J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1998, 110;917–922. [2] Higgins CA, Westgate GE, Jahoda CA. Modulation in proteolytic activity is identified as a hallmark of exogen by transcriptional profiling of hair follicles [J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2011, 131:2349–2357.

Speaker

16:30 - 17:00

Thermal Damage to Hair: Measurement & Perception

Heat-styling of hair is an established and popular consumer habit, exploiting the well-known thermally-induced glass transition in hair fibres to plasticise, re-shape then re-set the hair. Whilst the hair fibre glass transition itself is reversible, the application of heat to hair fibres can also cause irreversible configurational and chemical changes, ultimately leading to degradation of the structure of the hair fibre. Colloquially, this is referred to as heat damage, which is now the focus of significant consumer awareness and concern. In this presentation we discuss the selection of a preferred method for quantifying thermal damage to human hair based on considerations of sensitivity, robustness and physical relevance. We also discuss the utility of these measurements to the consumer with particular emphasis on the need to provide sound scientific guidance to those seeking to achieve fantastic styling results without suffering from perceivable detrimental effects of thermal damage to their hair.

Speaker

Skin Health

Skin care is the largest sector in the personal care and beauty market. This session focusses on the different ways scientific groups are trying to create break-through innovation for the skin care category and offer wider benefits to society through improved skin health.

Seminars

13:30 - 14:00

KEYNOTE: Non-invasive and Minimally Invasive Skin Technologies are Setting the Framework for a Digital Skin Twin

This presentation will explore the evolving landscape of clinical skin research, highlighting the pivotal role of advanced imaging and data science while addressing the critical gap in understanding the molecular mechanisms of skin biology. Current methodologies heavily rely on sophisticated imaging techniques that provide detailed visualizations of skin structure and pathology, complemented by novel data analysis approaches that interpret these complex datasets to reveal unprecedented patterns and insights. However, a significant aspect remains underexplored—the molecular mechanisms underpinning skin functions and disorders which explain the morphological features present in imaging. This presentation delves into how integrating molecular biology into the existing imaging framework can enrich our understanding, leading to more targeted and effective interventions. The discussion will cover the latest advancements in imaging technologies and data analytics, showcasing their potential to uncover not just structural and phenotypic data but also guide the discovery of underlying molecular processes. Examples include using high-resolution imaging to track cellular-level changes and applying machine learning models to predict skin disease progression from large-scale datasets. Progress in emerging approaches in skin microsampling, a less invasive method for obtaining skin cells and biomarkers without disrupting skin integrity, will be discussed. This technique is poised to revolutionize skin sample collection for molecular analysis, offering a more detailed molecular landscape of the skin in health and disease. Concluding the presentation, the development of a digital twin for skin—a comprehensive digital model replicating the skin's physical and biochemical properties—is discussed. This groundbreaking tool will serve research, industry, and regulation, offering a step-change improvement in developing, testing, and approving skin care products and pharmaceuticals. By bridging technological and methodological advancements, the digital twin will enhance our fundamental understanding of skin biology and pave the way for personalized and precision dermatology.

Speaker

14:00 - 14:30

The Impact of Emulsifiers on Skin Barrier Integrity

Emulsifiers were considered inactive ingredients in the past, and little or no attention was paid to their interaction with the skin barrier. However, in recent years, it has become evident that these ingredients can significantly impact skin physiology. Certain formulations have been found to reduce the thickness of the stratum corneum, which has been attributed to the choice of emulsifier. This means that the benefits provided by active and emollient ingredients in these formulations are mitigated.  Therefore, formulators must select an emulsification system that has no detrimental effect and preferably has a positive effect on the skin barrier. This presentation will discuss the interaction between emulsifiers and the skin, highlighting the importance of selecting the right emulsifier system for effective skincare products.

Speaker

14:30 - 15:00

Discovery in Dermatology and its Translation for the Skin Care Industry

Most successful business academic partnerships have a shared purpose that benefits society, focuses on the long term and values outputs that go beyond scientific publications and new technology. Research collaborations in dermatology are no exception and a fostering of an entrepreneurial and translational mindset within the team are essential to truly leverage all the expertise and talent available, providing maximum value for both the business and the university. Research translation in dermatology has been the catalyst for much progress in the cosmetics industry and leads not only to new products for consumers, but has also been important in pushing on new claims territories and providing education to members of the public. Retinol, peptides and other products in skincare can directly trace their origins back to research programs. In addition, research has helped us to better understand the changes in skin over time, helping us to make more relevant and meaningful claims to our consumers. This is not only in ageing-related changes to skin appearance, but also in UV protection. Further to this, it is important for us to use and disseminate dermatology research to increase the knowledge the public have about their skin and how different factors can impact its health, helping them to make the best choices for their skin. Dermatological research has been and continues to be the bed rock of the cosmetic industry and if we manage to ask the right questions and translate with excellence the answers, then we can make an important contribution, helping people achieve healthy skin for them, for life.

Speaker

Celebrating Cosmetic Science

The UK and Ireland are home to high-quality cosmetic science.
This session starts by celebrating the break-through science happening in Unilever hair research, and then asks questions from Innovate UK, Cosmetics Cluster UK and the British Beauty Council on how we can use our strong capabilities in cosmetic science to further drive business growth and innovation.

Seminars

10:00 - 10:30

KEYNOTE: Strands of Knowledge: Unravelling the Science of Hair – From Structure to Cosmetic Innovations

Hair is one of the most complex & versatile structures in nature. It is composed largely of keratin, a protein that also forms our nails and skin. Keratin is arranged in a complex fractal array of filaments called microfibrils, which are further organized into macrofibrils and then into fibres which give hair its strength and flexibility. The structure of hair can, however be impacted via  various factors, such as chemical treatments, heat styling, environmental exposure, mechanical stress, and even genetic predisposition which result in reduced hair strength, elasticity, shine, and moisture, as well as increased hair breakage, split ends, frizz, and tangling. Hair damage can also affect the psychological well-being and self-esteem of individuals who suffer from it. The main causes of hair damage can be classified into two categories: intrinsic and extrinsic. Intrinsic causes are related to the internal structure and composition of the hair, such as the keratin, melanin, and lipids that form the hair shaft and the cuticle. Extrinsic causes are related to the external factors that affect the hair, such as the chemical, thermal, and mechanical agents that alter the hair structure and integrity. Some of the most common extrinsic causes of hair damage are:
  • Bleaching, dyeing, perming, and relaxing: These chemical processes can weaken the hair bonds, disrupt the cuticle layer, and reduce the hair moisture content, leading to dry, brittle, and porous hair.
  • Blow-drying, curling, straightening, and brushing: These thermal and mechanical processes can generate high temperatures and friction that can damage the hair cuticle and cortex, resulting in hair breakage, split ends, and loss of shine.
  • Ultraviolet radiation, pollution, and chlorine: These environmental factors can oxidize the hair pigments, proteins, and lipids, causing hair colour fading, protein degradation, and lipid depletion, resulting in dull, weak, and dry hair.
The effects of hair damage can be observed at different levels of the hair structure, from the cuticle to the cortex. Some of the most common effects of hair damage are:
  • Cuticle damage: The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair that protects the inner layers from external damage. Cuticle damage can manifest as lifted, cracked, or missing cuticle scales, which expose the cortex and make the hair more vulnerable to further damage. Cuticle damage can also affect the hair appearance, making it rough, dull, & prone to frizz / tangling.
  • Cortex damage: The cortex is the middle layer of the hair that provides the hair strength, elasticity, and colour. Cortex damage can occur when the hair bonds are broken, the hair proteins are degraded, or the hair pigments are oxidized. Cortex damage can result in reduced hair strength, elasticity, and colour, as well as increased hair porosity and water absorption.
  • Lipid damage: The lipids are the fatty substances that coat the hair surface and fill the spaces between the cuticle scales. Lipid damage can occur when the lipids are depleted or oxidized by chemical, thermal, or environmental factors. Lipid damage can affect the hair moisture, shine, and smoothness, as well as increase the hair static and friction.
Consumers are becoming increasingly sophisticated in their hair needs and are looking for products that counteract the damage to  hair, nourishing, protecting, and repairing hair in addition to enhancing appearance. This presentation will cover Unilever’s approach to the measurement and alleviation of damage at the level of both the cuticle and the cortex, how we deploy technology to repair damaged proteins, to replace lost surface oils and protect colour, and how the technology is validated with consumers.

Speaker

10:30 - 11:00

Innovate UK Business Connect: Linking the innovation support landscape

Have you ever wondered where to start when it comes to innovation support for businesses and business collaborations in the UK? Innovate UK Business Connect’s mission is to link ideas, people and communities to respond to the ever-changing societal, environmental and economic challenges we face, and to drive positive change through innovation.  We’re here to help you make sense of the ecosystem of expertise and funding, connecting innovators with new partners and opportunities, accelerating ambitious ideas into real-world solutions. Our diverse connections span business, government, funders, research and the third sector.  Find out how you can work with us and how innovators in the cosmetic science sector can benefit from innovation support in the UK.

Speaker

  • Karen Wilkinson Knowledge Transfer Manager - Health - Innovate UK Business Connect

11:00 - 11:30

Cosmetics Cluster UK: Bridges, networks and knowledge exchange in the UK Cosmetics Industry

A cluster is defined as a geographical network of interconnected businesses, suppliers and associated institutions within an industry sector. With 1 in 50 jobs in the UK being in the beauty industry, we and others are highlighting the myriad of employment opportunities, especially upstream from retail, in an industry directly contributing £12b to the UK economy. Established in 2020, the mission of CCUK is to be the bridge that connects companies along the whole value chain in the cosmetics industry, from research to raw materials to retail. CCUK has four pillars of activity embracing education & skills; sustainability; international networks and research & innovation. We support best practices, foster collaborations & help solve industry challenges. For example we have introduced new suppliers in the bio-economy with existing cosmetic ingredient manufacturers who can help to establish a validated market for a novel class of biomaterials for use by product manufacturers. We are delighted to celebrate UK cosmetic science and support research activities with our industry knowledge and connections.

Speaker

11:30 - 12:00

Futureproofing the British Beauty Industry – how we can use talent and innovation to secure a sustainable future for beauty and beyond

What does the average person think of when imagining a career in the beauty industry? How can the beauty industry help tackle some of the biggest challenges our planet faces? How can we get more people to be part of this change? As an industry that touches everyone’s lives multiple times every day, beauty and the role of science within it is key to driving innovation and much needed change in consumer behaviour. From the products we offer, to the packaging they come in and what happens to them at end of use – the beauty industry must address the role it plays in contributing to the climate crisis and work together to find solutions. The British Beauty Council is addressing this two-fold - with the Future Talent Programme, an initiative to drive new talent into much needed science, sustainability and innovation roles in the beauty industry and the Sustainable Beauty Coalition, an alliance of thought leaders, experts, businesses and brands from all sectors of the beauty industry to working together to accelerate collaboration, knowledge and bolder collective efforts. This session will cover the challenges we face and how the beauty industry can and is meeting these head on, with plenty of opportunities for attendees to get involved and become part of the charge for positive change.

Speaker

Future Education Workshop

Future Education Workshop

All conference delegates are free to join the Future Education Workshop, please inform us that you would like to join when you register for the conference.

Breakfast and drinks will be supplied by CCUK.

Please come along and share your views.
Goal of the future education workshop:
To gather the views, opinions and issues of stakeholders in the education and skills pathways into careers in the cosmetics industry, especially in cosmetic science.
Format:
Stakeholders from across the sector have been invited to give a short presentation on their views on the question.
“What should the future of cosmetic science education look like?”

There will be 5 x 5 min talks.

• What the workforce needs will be in the coming years
• Ana Filippa Calado – Arthur Edward Associates

• What is being designed into educations provision in Universities
• Gabriela Daniels – LCF

• What are the expectations of the education students are receiving
• Rayanne Golding – Future Soc

• Cosmetic science education for in work study
• Bernice Ridley – SCS

• New developments in science and relevance to the cosmetics industry
• Majella Lane – UCL/Editor IJCS

Talks will be followed by a Panel discussion and audience Q&A.

Paul Cornwell, our SCS Chair of the Conference Organising Committee comments: “The Future Education Forum is about bringing together all the people with a stake in cosmetic science training and education, and putting all the issues we have on the table.

These might include misalignments between the needs of employers and what educational courses provide, or the lack training opportunities for all the different learning pathways people have, or the varied quality of educational courses on offer, or the lack of investment in basic cosmetic science research.

The aim of the forum is collect and prioritise these issues and then, at a more in-depth event in the future, to start shaping potential solutions.

Thanks to Cosmetic Cluster UK for organising this important event, and for providing the breakfasts! This event is free to attend, sign-up to attend when you register for the conference”.

A Step Change for the SCS

SCS Annual Conference - A Step Change for the SCS

This year will see a major step-change in the quality of science presented at the SCS Annual Conference. 

Featuring 19 scientific presentations, from leading research groups in industry and academia, this conference is not to be missed!

Sessions will focus on

  • Celebrating and Driving Innovation in Cosmetic Science
  • Skin Health
  • Hair Products and Styling Devices
  • Product Science and Product Evaluation
  • Skin Science

Keynote talks will be given by;

  • Dr Glyn Roberts, Head of Global Hair Care R&D, Unilever, on hair care innovations;
  • Prof Tarl Prow, Director of the Skin Research Centre at University of York, on advanced skin testing methods;
  • Dr James P. Ewan, RAEng Research Fellow at Imperial College, on tribology and hair conditioning;
  • Prof Helen Sneddon, Director of Green Chemistry Centre of Excellence at University of York, on green chemistry solutions for cosmetics;
  • Prof Des Tobin, Director of Dermatological Science at University College, Dublin, on skin and hair pigmentation.

All the speakers will highlight how they are using cutting-edge science to encourage innovation in cosmetic science. 

It is hoped that this meeting will encourage new collaborations and initiatives.

The Panel Debate at the end of Session 1 will pull all four speakers back to the stage for a moderated discussion about how best to drive innovation in cosmetic science, and business growth in our industry. The moderator will open the discussions, but there will be plenty of opportunities to ask questions from the audience.

The UK and Ireland have world-class universities, but we have often struggled to turn this to our financial advantage, and we are slipping behind the Far East in terms of economic outputs.

Technology clusters such as silicone valley in California, the Cambridge life sciences cluster, and Cosmetics Valley in France, offer one mechanism to drive innovation.

Cosmetics Cluster UK is working towards this sort of aim, but there is always more to be done.

Another solution could be to build deep partnerships between businesses and particular academic centres, such as the Materials Innovation Factory, a collaboration between Unilever and Liverpool University.

Then there is the whole world of open innovation, where inventors develop new technologies and then sell them to businesses to take them to market.

How can this be best supported at a national level?

There is also the area of government research grants, and how these can be used to push through new science, develop new capabilities and open new business opportunities. Of course, there are probably many other potential solutions.

The purpose of the debate will be to share ideas on how governments, universities, and scientific and trade associations (such as the SCS and the British Beauty Council), can work together to drive business growth, through cosmetic science.

One solution is undoubtedly, linked to improved cosmetic science education. We shall not dwell on this during the Panel Debate, since the Future Education Forum, the following day, will look at this in some depth.

CPD Accredited Event

SCS Annual Conference - CPD Accredited Event

BREAKING NEWS!!

We have had confirmation from the Continuing Professional Development Certification Service that our Annual Conference counts towards CPD accreditation.

Due to the scientific nature and content of the speakers, the further learning value and structure conforms to CPD guidelines.

Please contact Head Office to find out more details on how to add this to your personal training profile.